Planting Tips - Vines
Plant at the right time
- Most resources advise the best time to plant is spring or fall and although this is generally true, there are advantages to planting throughout the summer. Establishing vines in warmer soils can promote faster root growth and in turn can be more successful than in cooler seasons.
Know the growing habits of each vine
- Grapes (Vitis spp.): Grapevines are vigorous climbers that produce tendrils to grip onto structures for support. They can grow several meters in a single growing season. Grapes are typically pruned in winter to maintain shape and promote fruit production.
- Clematis: Clematis vines are known for their stunning flowers and come in a variety of species and cultivars. They climb using leaf stalks, so they require a trellis or other support structure. Pruning requirements for Clematis vary depending on the type.
- Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia): This native vine has adhesive pads that allow it to cling to surfaces. It can quickly cover large areas and produces attractive red foliage in the fall.
- Wisteria. Wisteria vines produce long, flexible stems that are capable of twining around nearby objects such as trellises, arbors, fences, or even other plants. As the stems grow, they naturally seek out support structures and begin to wrap around them.
- English Ivy (Hedera helix): English ivy is an aggressive climber with aerial roots that attach to surfaces. It can grow both vertically and horizontally, making it useful for ground cover or as a climbing vine.
- Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): Also known as trumpet creeper or trumpet vine, this native vine produces large, trumpet-shaped flowers that attract hummingbirds. It climbs using aerial roots or tendrils and can become quite vigorous if not pruned regularly.
- Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.): Honeysuckle vines are known for their fragrant flowers and twining growth habit.
- Hops (Humulus lupulus): Hops are climbing vines that produce flowers used in brewing beer. They require a trellis system to support their vertical growth and are typically pruned in late winter or early spring.
- Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris ssp.) A self-clinging vine, meaning it has specialized aerial rootlets along its stems that allow it to attach itself securely to various surfaces such as walls, fences, and tree trunks. These aerial rootlets enable the vine to climb upwards without the need for additional support structures.
Identify the location you want to plant on your property and ask the following questions
- How much sunlight does your planting location get per day?
- Does this area get normal levels of rainfall or is it in a location under overhangs or dense tree coverage?
- Do you have access to water?
- What's your soil like? Is it sandy and well-drained or heavy and holds moisture? If you are unsure try performing a water-holding capacity test
- Are you planting a vine that requires a fence or trellis to be trained up on or will it crawl along the ground.
Match the vine to the location you choose
- Select plants that are well-adapted to the local climate. Know your Zone.
- Use the search filters to select appropriate plants for sunlight levels.
- Use the search filters to select appropriate plants for soil moisture levels or amend the soil to increase or decrease water holding capacity.
- Install a fence or trellis if required.
Determine the hole size required to plant
- The width of the hole should be two times the width of the root ball you are planting. This extra width allows the roots to easily spread out and establish themselves in the loose soil when you backfill the hole.
- The depth of the hole should be equal to the height of the plant's root ball.
Amending the soil
- In most circumstances it is beneficial to mix a composted manure or leaf waste with the existing soil before back filling. A recommended rate is 1 part compost to 4 parts existing soil.
- Fill the bottom of your hole (approximately 3-5cm) with the amended soil. The loose soil at the bottom will allow the roots to easily establish themselves.
Getting ready to plant
- Remove the container (packaging) by turning the plant upside-down holding the soil and plant in one hand and gently tapping on the bottom of the container to free the container from the root ball. Do not pull the plant from the container as this may cause damage to the top growth and roots.
- Once the container is off do an inspection of the roots. If the plant has an established root system, break up the roots that are circling by gently disturbing the soil and roots with your fingers.
Planting time!
- Place the plant in the hole. Reassess that your hole depth is equal to the height of the root ball. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom Note: It is okay for the root ball to be slightly above the height of the hole to allow for the soil and roots to settle after watering.
- Back fill with the amended soil to roughly half the hole depth.
- Use the end of your shovel to gently tamp the soil around your plant until you feel the plant is stable and vertical inside the hole. Adding water at this stage will help settle the soil and fill in any potential air pockets around your plant.
- Continue to add soil until it is filled to the top of the hole. Any extra soil can be displaced using a rake or removed and added to another garden.
Know when to water and how much
- Water newly planted vines thoroughly after planting and continue until they are established. There are easy-to-use tools to measure soil moisture, although visual inspection and feeling the soil can be just as reliable.
- Consider time of year and weather conditions. Factors like temperature, humidity and rainfall influence how quickly the soil dries out.
- Adjust based on needs. Some vines have specific water needs. Confirm the ones you chose and adjust accordingly.
- Mulching is optional although a layer of mulch around the base of the plant can help retain soil moisture and reduce the need to water as often. Note: Be careful not to apply mulch too heavy or bury the stems of vines in a thick layer near the crown as this may cause disease or stems to rot.
- Morning waterings are preferred. Watering in the morning allows the plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day evaporates it. Avoid watering in the evenings after the sun is down as this may promote fungal disease on foliage.
- Adjust as the plant establishes. Vines will develop roots quick (2-3 weeks) and will become more resilient to longer periods without watering. Keep monitoring and gradually adjust based on the plants growth and visual inspections.
Attach the vine to a fence or trellis
Most of the vines you'll receive from GardenTap will come staked already. Once you have completed the planting and you watered in the roots, you may carefully remove these stakes and assist or attach the vine using these methods.
- Wire or twine: If you have an existing fence you may use wire or twine to attach the vine. Tie the vine loosely using garden twine or plastic coated wire Note: Be sure not to tie too tightly to allow for growth and expansion
- Trellis: Install a trellis against a fence or wall to climb on. Attach the vine to the trellis using twine, guiding the vine as desired.
- Hooks or screws: Install hooks or eye screws on a fence at intervals, then gently train the vine to climb along the fence by attaching it to the hooks using twist ties or garden twine. This method works well for lightweight vines with tendrils or clinging stems.
- Aerial rootlets: Some vines, like Climbing Hydrangea or English Ivy, have aerial rootlets that allow them to cling directly to surfaces. In this case, you can simply press the vine against the fence, and it will attach itself over time.