Planting Tips - Ferns
Ornamental grasses are primarily grown for their decorative qualities, while warm-season and cool-season grasses are categorized based on their preferred growing conditions and peak growth periods. While some ornamental grasses may belong to either the warm-season or cool-season category, the distinction between warm and cool-season grasses is mainly based on their response to temperature and climate.
Warm-season grasses
- Warm-season grasses are a category of grasses that thrive in warm climates and have peak growth during the warmer months of the year.
- They are typically more drought-tolerant and better adapted to hot, sunny conditions compared to cool-season grasses.
- Warm-season grasses often go dormant and turn brown in cooler temperatures, but they thrive in the heat of summer.
- Examples of warm-season Grasses are Maiden Grass (Miscanthus), Switch Grass (Panicum) and Big Blue stem (Andropogon).
Cool-season grasses
- Cool-season grasses are a category of grasses that perform best in cooler climates and have peak growth during the cooler months of the year.
- They are well-suited for regions with mild summers and cold winters.
- Examples of cool season grasses are Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis), Tufted Hair grass (Deschampsia), and Sedges (Carex).
Plant at the right time
- Most resources advise the best time to plant is spring or fall and although this is generally true, planting established container grown grasses that have a well-developed root system in the summer can be just as successful as spring and fall. Planting newly divided grasses or bareroot grasses should be avoided during the summer months.
Identify the location you want to plant on your property and ask the following questions
- How much sunlight does your planting location get per day?
- Does this area get normal levels of rainfall or is it in a location under overhangs or dense tree coverage?
- Do you have access to water?
- What's your soil like? Is it sandy and well-drained or heavy and holds moisture? If you are unsure try performing a water-holding capacity test
Know how big each grass grows
- Check the height and spread measurements when planting a garden.
- Knowing the mature size will help in providing the correct space, this will allow for adequate air circulation and room for growth.
Match the grass to the location you choose
- Select plants that are well-adapted to the local climate. Know your Zone.
- Use the search filters to select appropriate plants for sunlight levels.
- Use the search filters to select appropriate plants for soil moisture levels or amend the soil to increase or decrease water holding capacity.
Determine the hole size required to plant
- The width of the hole should be 1-2 times the width of the root ball you are planting. This extra width allows the roots to easily spread out and establish themselves in the loose soil when you backfill the hole.
- The depth of the hole should be equal to the height of the plant's root ball.
Amending the soil
- It is beneficial to mix a composted manure or leaf waste with the existing soil before back filling. A recommended rate is 1-2 parts compost to 4 parts existing soil. Grasses like soils that retain moisture well without being waterlogged.
- Fill the bottom of your hole (approximately 3-5cm) with the amended soil. The loose soil at the bottom will allow the roots to easily establish themselves.
Getting ready to plant
- Remove the container (packaging) by turning the plant upside-down holding the soil and plant in one hand and gently tapping on the bottom of the container to free the container from the root ball. Do not pull the plant from the container as this may cause damage to the top growth and roots.
- Once the container is off do an inspection of the roots. If the plant has an established root system, break up the roots that are circling by gently disturbing the soil and roots with your fingers.
Planting time!
- Place the plant in the hole. Reassess that your hole depth is equal to the height of the root ball. Adjust by adding or removing soil from the bottom Note: It is okay for the root ball to be slightly above the height of the hole to allow for the soil and roots to settle after watering.
- Back fill with the amended soil to roughly half the hole depth.
- Use the end of your shovel to gently tamp the soil around your plant until you feel the plant is stable and vertical inside the hole. Adding water at this stage will help settle the soil and fill in any potential air pockets around your plant.
- Continue to add soil until it is filled to the top of the hole. Any extra soil can be displaced using a rake or removed and added to another garden.
Know when to water and how much
- Water newly planted grasses thoroughly after planting and continue until they are established. There are easy-to-use tools to measure soil moisture, although visual inspection and feeling the soil can be just as reliable.
- Consider time of year and weather conditions. Factors like temperature, humidity and rainfall influence how quickly the soil dries out.
- Adjust based on needs. Some grasses have specific water needs. Confirm the ones you chose and adjust accordingly.
- Mulching is optional although a layer of mulch around the base of the plant can help retain soil moisture and reduce the need to water as often. Note: Be careful not to apply mulch too heavy or bury the stems of grasses in a thick layer near the crown as this may cause disease or stems to rot.
- Morning waterings are preferred. Watering in the morning allows the plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day evaporates it. Avoid watering in the evenings after the sun is down as this may promote fungal disease on foliage.
- Adjust as the plant establishes. Grasses will develop roots quickly although full establishment will take up to a year. Once established they require extra waterings outside of normal rainfall unless during extended periods of drought.
Optional Tips
- Pruning Ornamental grasses - The timing of pruning grasses depends on the specific species or cultivar and whether they are cool or warm season grasses although there are only slight differences.
- Cool season grasses - Typically start growing earlier in spring so prune them back late winter/ early spring once a year within a few inches from the ground before the new seasons growth starts to emerge. This allows you to remove the previous year's foliage without affecting the new growth.
- Warm season grasses - Typically start growing mid to late spring. Similar to cool season grasses, warm season grasses should be pruned within a few inches from the ground although you can wait until early to mid spring before doing so.
- Prune back before winter? - Pruning grasses late fall or early winter can be done once grasses have gone dormant or after a few early frosts. Some Gardeners prefer to leave their grasses through the winter for added interest, especially grasses that are known for standing strong and flowers that dry naturally through the winter.